Page 103 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT
P. 103
• Arahne (ArahWeave, ArahPaint): Well-regarded - Weave libraries: Utilize existing weave
for dobby and jacquard weaving, with strong structures and adapt them.
simulation capabilities. - Formulas/algorithms: Some advanced
• Pointcarre: Another popular choice for textile software allows you to generate weaves
design, including woven structures. based on mathematical formulas.
• AVA CAD/CAM (AVA weave): Known for its ease • Float checking: Crucially, CAD software for
of use in creating checks, stripes, dobby, and weaves will have features to identify and help you
jacquard designs. correct “floats” (long sections of warp or weft yarn
• WveCAD: Online textile CAD software focused on that are not interlaced). Excessive floats can lead
to fabric defects.
Dobby and Jacquard weaving.
• Multi-layered weaves: For complex fabrics like
• Fiberworks PCW, WeaveIt, pixeLoom,
WeavePoint: More geared towards handloom double cloths or tubular weaves, CAD allows you
weavers and educational purposes, but still utilize to define multiple layers of fabric and how they
the same fundamental principles. interlace.
3 General workflow for designing weaves in CAD 4 Apply colors and yarn patterns
1 Select your weave type (Dobby vs. Jacquard) • Warp/weft color pattern: Define the sequence
of colors in your warp and weft. For example, “2
• Dobby weaves: These are typically simpler blue, 2 white” for stripes or checks.
weaves where the pattern repeats relatively
small. They are controlled by dobby looms with • Color mapping: For jacquard designs, you’ll often
a limited number of harnesses (shafts). CAD import a bitmap image (artwork) and then “map”
software will help you create threading, tie-up, different colors in the image to specific weave
and lifting plans. structures and yarn colors. This is where artistic
design meets weave technicality.
• Jacquard weaves: These allow for much • Colorways: Easily experiment with different color
larger, more intricate, and complex patterns, as combinations for the same weave structure.
each warp yarn can be individually controlled
by a jacquard mechanism. CAD for jacquard 5 Simulate the fabric (Visualization)
involves converting complex artworks into • This is one of the most powerful features. The
weave structures.
CAD software takes your weave diagram, yarn
2 Define loom parameters (settings) specifications, and color patterns and generates a
realistic digital simulation of how the woven fabric
• Ends per Inch (EPI) / Ends per Centimeter
(EPC): Warp density. will look.
• Picks per Inch (PPI) / Picks per Centimeter • 2D Simulations: Show the fabric flat, revealing
the weave texture and color effects.
(PPC): Weft density.
• 3D Simulations (Texture Mapping & Draping):
• Yarn counts/types: Specify the thickness, More advanced systems can apply your woven
material, and color of your warp and weft yarns. fabric design as a texture onto 3D garments,
Many CAD systems have yarn libraries or allow furniture, or other products, allowing you to see
you to create custom yarn profiles.
how the fabric drapes and behaves in a virtual
• Number of warps/wefts in repeat: Determine environment. This significantly reduces the need
the size of your weave repeat. for physical samples.
• Color palette: Load or create your desired yarn • Zoom and inspect: Zoom in to see individual yarn
colors. interlacing and subtle texture effects.
3 Design the weave structure (point paper/ 6 Generate production data (CAM Integration)
drawdown)
• Once the design is finalized and simulated to
• Basic weaves (Plain, Twill, Satin): Most CAD satisfaction, the CAD software generates the
software will have libraries of standard weaves necessary files for the loom.
you can select and modify.
• Jacquard card/loom files: For jacquard looms,
• Creating new weaves this could be JCT, Bonas, Stäubli, or other
- Drawing tools: Use tools similar to a pixel proprietary formats that control each individual
editor (pencil, brush) to manually fill in the hook.
squares on the grid, representing warp up/ • Dobby loom files: For dobby looms, this
down. This is crucial for creating custom or includes threading drafts, lifting plans, and tie-up
complex interlacing. information.
Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.7.66-68 93

